Transplants
By Bruce Lee Deuley - 2/4/03

Some gardeners prefer to grow their own vegetable transplants rather than purchase transplants from a garden center or other supplier. They may want to have transplants at a specific time of the year, prefer a particular variety that is not available commercially, or gardeners may simply enjoy growing transplants from seed. The following suggestions will be helpful for those interested in growing their own transplants from seed.

Soil-less growing media usually produce better transplants than mineral soils. Soil is often contaminated with weed seeds, nematodes, fungi and bacteria that may cause plant losses. Heavy soils (those with a lot of clay) drain poorly and may keep the seedlings too wet. Soil-less mixes are made of peat moss, vermiculite, pine bark and other organic materials and can be mixed or bought commercially. these mixes are beat for seedlings and transplants since they are less likely to harbor diseases fungi or bacteria that may harm or kill your young plants.

If transplants begin to develop a yellowish color, it may be necessary to use a small amount of a good organic fertilizer such as Medina’s Hasta-Gro or Bioforms liquid fertilizer. After many years of growing vegetables organically, there is no doubt in my mind that you will be able to taste the superior flavor of organically grown food crops.

Many types of containers are available from garden centers, nurseries, mail-order catalogs, and other commercial suppliers. Container types include peat pots, peat pellets, fiber blocks, plastic pots and trays, and cell flats. Whatever container you choose, it should provide drainage of excess water from the bottom to keep the soil or other growing medium from staying too wet.

Seeds of slowly growing plants, such as tomato, pepper, cabbage and broccoli, can be planted in a small tray and the plants moved to a larger container when they have started to develop one or two true leaves. This step may interrupt the growth of the seedlings, however, and does require extra time. Seeds of these crops may be planted directly into a cell tray if growing space is not limited.

Seeds of rapidly growing plants, such as cucumber, muskmelon, squash, pumpkin and watermelon, should be planted directly into a container large enough for mature transplants.

Seedlings will not need light until they emerge from the medium. Once they appear, transplants will grow better if they receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight each day.

Seeds of cool-season crops (those that can tolerate frost) will germinate at temperatures of 45°F to 80°F (optimum 60°F-75°F ), while warm-season vegetables (those that are susceptible to frost) will germinate at 70°F to 90°F (optimum 70°F-85°F). Germination will be most rapid in the upper 10° of these ranges.

After germination occurs, cool-season crops should be grown at 60°F to 70°F during the day and 50°F at night. Warm-season crops do best at day temperatures of 70°F to 75°F and 60°F at night.

Vegetable seeds and plants will need an adequate amount of moisture for germination and growth. Avoid over-watering, however, since root development will be poor and diseases are more likely to develop if the growing medium is kept saturated. Water only when needed, but don't let the plants wilt if you can avoid it.

next week: out into the garden.